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Cable Ties, Adhesive Mounting Tape, and Wire Taps
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Housing Dimensions: 1.42" square, 0.315" thick
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Weight packaged: 0.244 Lb
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Wire type: #20 600V rated.
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Max current draw for Autoswitch trigger wire (violet) is 200mA @12Volts
With 150mA preffered maximum.
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Weight installed with wires: 0.202 Lb
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Wire lengths: Power feed, 24" Sense wire orange 72"
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Package includes: 3 8" tie wraps, 6 4" tie wraps, 2 wire clips, adhesive tape, instructions.
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AutoSwitch model 5NB2 works by sensing the chassis-ground connection from the TSC when the button is pressed twice quickly.
The visual LED blinks rapidly during the timed "window" up to 1.2 seconds long during which the 2 taps must be completed.
The single tap on the TSC button to cancel the turn signal will not activate the Autoswitch. LED shines green to indicate power to your auxiliary lights relay.
Installing the Autoswitch will not alter your existing wiring and can never cause a malfunction to your existing circuits. The Autoswitch simply taps any 12 volt wire after the ignition switch for power and the GROUND wire coming from the turn-signal-cancel button Add connections to ground and the coil of the auxiliary light relay and you have installed the Autoswitch!
The following paragraphs were provided by Sean at http://www.cyclegadgets.com/
For the R1100RT, most connections can be made in the fuse box under the seat. The Turn Signal Control module is a 1" x 2" cube in the right rear of the fuse box. Pull it up (do not disconnect it). There are about 12 wires underneath. Cut away some of the sheath, and locate the Brown wire with White Stripes. Tap the Orange wire from the Autoswitch into this.
On the K1200LT, the wiring is a little more complex. We recommend locating the Autoswitch under the seat, where you can connect the Red and Black to power and ground as outlined below. Route the ORANGE wire up to the front of the bike, and use Zip ties to fasten it to a wiring bundle or brake line leading to the right handlebar assembly. Remove the handlebar cover (two 3mm Hex screws from below). Cut away some of the sheath from the largest wiring bundle, and locate the Brown wire with White stripes. Tap into this wire.
For other BMW models with a turn signal cancel button, you will need to locate the wire leading to that button. It will generally be brown with white stripes, and you can test it by using a meter to confirm that the wire shorts to ground when the turn signal cancel button is pressed.
For all bikes, connect the Red wire to power. An ATC fuse tap (available at an auto parts store or Radio Shack) is an easy solution in most cases. Choose a fuse that is "hot" only when the ignition is on.
Connect the Black lead to a chassis ground. You may need to extend the black lead with a piece of scrap wire to reach a suitable frame or battery ground point.
The Violet wire controls your lights. If you are using a Cycle Gadgets lighting kit, attach the Violet wire to the Alternate Control Harness. For other lighting solutions, attach it to the +12V coil terminal on the light kit relay.
There are many options for mounting the LED, depending on the amount of effort you want to put into it. You can drill a hole small enough for just the lens of the LED in the dash and use silicone adhesive to hold it in from behind, fasten with a cable clip at the front of the fuel tank, etc. We have found that it's pretty easy to get the hang of the Autoswitch timing without a visual cue, so you may find it adequate to just coil up the LED under the seat and not use it at all.
For additional information, please view our "Relay Basics for the Novice" page.
Use the Autoswitch and have a hidden switch working for you. The Autoswitch is easy to install. If you already have auxiliary driving lights installed with a controlling toggle switch and relay, Put the Autoswitch VIOLET and the BLACK wire where your toggle was connected on the relay coil pins. Tap the RED into any ignition-swtiched 'ON' wire for power, ORANGE wire to the turn-signal cancel button wire. Add connections to ground, and neatly tuck the Autoswitch and wires out of the way in any convenient location. And without building a bracket, drilling any holes, or modifying your dash, you’re done!
Click here to download complete detailed instructions as an Adobe pdf file.
Using a Headlight Modulator |
This Autoswitch is triggered by the ground pulse from the Turn Signal Cancel
button on BMW motorcycles 1992-2004 (Non CAN-BUS digital system) so there is
no interaction at all between the headlight or high beam lights.
Using a Turn Signal Canceler |
If using an aftermarket turn signal canceler that ALSO sends a negative or ground connection to the controller box, be sure the pulse is less than 1 second in length and it is a single pulse. This will avoid it telling the Autoswitch to activate your lights relay ON or OFF. Or activating the garage door opener.
Using Multiple Autoswitches on the Same Vehicle |
The negative pulse models AS5NB, AS5NB2 and AS5NG2, and AS5NCY all use the turn signal cancel button on the BMW motorcycles. That button sends a negative pulse to the controller. (It grounds the wire).
Using the AS5NB the unit detects only the long pulse. The button release time is after 1.2 seconds but before 10 seconds. On the AS5NCY there is no 10 second time limit. But that unit's only for CycleGadget's special customers.
Then on the same vehicle, use an AS5NB2 or the garage model NG2. This type "sees" ONLY the 2 quick short tap pulses. These are just touch and release tpe and spaced within 1 second. This switch ignores the long pulse that only the other unit will "see", and vice versa.
The second switch is great for activating a second set of lights or a whole separate power panel doing other things. This writer set it up for separate control of blinding (to oncoming drivers even in daylight) Hella HID lamps. One was plenty for night time city while both would be on for rural solitary riding, creating my own daylight up ahead.
The above covers use of TWO switches on a BMW moto (pre CAN-BUS). To add another TWO Autoswitches for a total of 4, just use the high beam trigger for the AS5P (long pulse) and AS5P2 for the two quick pulses. This writer used the P2 on a new 1200GS via the tail light brake bulb. I do 2 quick touches the brake lever to activate the AS5P2. This is not a recommended activation method.
LED Indicator Light Information |
LED dimensions details:
This LED has a lens on top. The housing is a 5mm diameter, 7mm tall. There is a 1mm long flange at the bottom thats 6mm diameter. The wire underneath needs aproximately 20mm before a full bend can be made. This stiffness is only due to all the layers of protective heat shrink tubing. By modifying this area the bottom of the LED wire secion can be set up much smaller.
LED info:
The LED is a bi-color. Red or Green. It changes color by getting the volatge on the feed wire reversed by the processor. When the LED is quickly pulsed the color appears orange to the eye. The wire is 6 to 7 feet long. It should never be cut or altered due to the danger of damaging the processor chip. If the wires are shorted when the Autoswitch is powered up, the processor chip will be instantly ruined.
Further tech info about converting the LED to be a bulb, or changing to a different LED entails custom work, info and configurations we do not have available at this time.
Relay Basics for the Novice |
A relay is nothing more than a remotely located switch that you activate using a small switch or computer. The reason for a relay is to allow switching on and off high currents. Such currents like 10, 20, and 30 amps would make a toggle switch too big and impossible for a fragile logic circuit. So you control a relay using a small, low cost toggle switch or a computer circuit. You let the relay do the hard work. The relay then has an IN and OUT (usually reversible) high current pins that break the high current line between the battery and the large lights.
The relay has inside an electromagnetic coil, like an electromagnet. This coil usually draws very little current, such as 30, 50 or 100 mA (0.03 0.05 or 0.10 Amp) When the logic circuit or small toggle puts power across this coil it closes the high power contacts inside the relay. You hear a click on and a click off.
Most relays have a small drawing on the housing to tell you which 1 or 2 of the 3 or 4 pins are the coil and which are the actual switched contacts. If you dont know you can run some tests with a 12V battery, trying different combos of 2 until you get a click!
Here is more relay information for the electrical novice. Thanks to http://www.relayhelp.com/ for this image and visit thier site for an incredible array of other relay wiring ideas. |
If the relay is in a metal housing, It may have only ONE pin for the coil. The second pin, or ground is the housing which must be mounted direct to chassis or otherwise grounded. If your relay is in a plastic housing it will have 2 pins for the coil, usually reversible. Your toggle switch is breaking the 12v power line between one side of coil and power.
The Autoswitch VIOLET wire feeds a small amount of 12V power to one side of the coil, in the same manner as your small toggle. The Autoswitch has an extra ground wire in case you have a 2 pin coil on the relay.
But you can also just ground that 2nd coil pin and ignore (cut off) the extra ground wire on Autoswitch. Autoswitch gets ground from the other BLACK wire, it uses for its own circuit.
We hope this has helped those who are electrically challenged and we welcome comments and changes to this text.
Troubleshooting an Autoswitch on the Work Bench |
It is always recommended you pre-test operation of accessories of any kind before being installed on your vehicle. Especially important when the accessory is electrical, electronic and involves over an hour of detailed labor and vehicle dissasembly. If the product being installed is defective, you just saved a great deal of time and effort, and can go direct to working with the supplier to remedy the problem. If a problem arrises after the product is installed you already know to troubleshoot your wiring not the product itself.
With all that said, lets test the autoswitch on the bench or at your shop before you install it. You will need a 12-14 Volt power source and a Volt meter/Ohm meter.
1. Unpack the Autoswitch AS5NB2. Apply +12V to the red wire and ground the black wire. You should see the red LED illuminate for 1 second.
2. Touch the orange wire to ground twice quickly. In less than 1.2 seconds.
3. The violet wire is now energized and the LED is lighted green. Check for voltage at the end of the violet wire. It would be aproximately 1.5 to 2.0 volts less than your input voltage on the red wire. (reverse voltage protection reduces voltage level)
4. Repeat step 2 to de-energize the violet wire, or simple pull the power off the red wire.
5. If you dont have a volt meter for this bench test then just apply the violet to your light relay and see if it clicks over. (You are testing the light kit on the bench too, I hope?)
6. You have proven your AS5NB2 is GOOD. So please remember that before you email for support if the lights dont work.
Toubleshooting an Autoswitch Installation |
1. Check your connections.
2. Check your connections.
3. Check your connections.
Follow the 3 steps above and we are 99.5% certain the problem will be solved. These little circuits over the years of refinement (version 5 now) have become excellent at surviving your misuse, abuse, bad installs, bike drops, reverse voltage, bad relays etc.
Some tips:
1. If you care about your work and not paying by the hour to do it, dump the red wire clips. Solder all your connections. Since most connections are a T type and hard to wrap, I use a dab of silicon glue or pieces of plastic tube and other ways to insulate well the connection. Be sure the silicon hardens before closing up the bike or powering up!
2. If your lights blink OFF and then back ON, you have a loose connection either to the relay coil or the high amp wires that the relay is controlling. Dont ignore the ground connections to the lights or relay.
3. If your lights go off and you have to use the Autoswitch to turn them back on then power to the Autoswitch red or black wire is intermittent.
4. Get your voltmeter and test for voltages at the inputs and outputs of the Autoswitch.
5. If the LED is green you MUST have voltage coming from the violet wire. Disconnect your relay coil and test again, maybe the coil is bad or shorted.
6. The LED turns red upon power up, 97% chance the circuit is working fine.
7. Dont forget to call or email back after you did steps 1, 2 and 3 to find the problem you blamed on Autoswitch on your first call or email. Thanks!
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