Special version activates your hidden garage door remote. Takes 2 quick pulses of the TSC. Closes a tiny onboard relay contact for 2 seconds. This then simulates the pushbutton on your garage door remote control. Requires opening up your remote to solder in 2 wires at right location. OR we modify your remote for $23 post paid.
Additional information coming soon ...
Garage Controller set up:
The way we designed our system, you use the same high security controller you already trust and have been using. No worries about aftermarket low security controllers or high prices for new ones that work on our system. Its fairly simple to connect the Autoswitch to your controller, OR send it to us and we will do it for you. No need to send us your Autoswitch (if already purchased, or purchasing from your favorite dealer). We simply get your controller and add 2 wires to exit the controller which you then simply splice onto the Autoswitch! We will do this for your controller at a flat rate $23 including delivery back to you.
How it works and how its done:
This special Autoswitch G series have an on-board relay which opens and closes contact for 2 seconds on 2 wires on the Autoswitch. These 2 wires then connect inside your existing garage door RF remote opener/controller. The 2 wires connect inside on the PC board of your opener using a small soldering pencil and a bit of electronic solder. The wires exit the controller via small hole existing on the controller or a hole you make using a blade or small grinder.
The wires inside the controller connect to where the physical pushbutton on your controller is connected. You will need a way to confirm continuity when pressing the physical button on the PCB (printed circuit board) of your controller. Just use an Ohm meter and select the points you think are right. Once you see the contact closure on your Ohm meter you have located the solder points for the Autoswitch control wire.
Click here to download complete detailed directions as an Adobe pdf file.
Using a Headlight Modulator |
This Autoswitch is triggered by the ground pulse from the Turn Signal Cancel button on BMW motorcycles 1992-2004 (Non CAN-BUS digital system) so there is no interaction at all between the headlight or high beam lights.
Using a Turn Signal Canceler |
If using an aftermarket turn signal canceler that ALSO sends a negative or ground connection to the controller box, be sure the pulse is less than 1 second in length and it is a single pulse. This will avoid it telling the Autoswitch to activate your lights relay ON or OFF. Or activating the garage door opener.
Using Multiple Autoswitches on the Same Vehicle |
The negative pulse models AS5NB, AS5NB2 and AS5NG2, and AS5NCY all use the turn signal cancel button on the BMW motorcycles. That button sends a negative pulse to the controller. (It grounds the wire).
Using the AS5NB the unit detects only the long pulse. The button release time is after 1.2 seconds but before 10 seconds. On the AS5NCY there is no 10 second time limit. But that unit's only for CycleGadget's special customers.
Then on the same vehicle, use an AS5NB2 or the garage model NG2. This type "sees" ONLY the 2 quick short tap pulses. These are just touch and release tpe and spaced within 1 second. This switch ignores the long pulse that only the other unit will "see", and vice versa.
The second switch is great for activating a second set of lights or a whole separate power panel doing other things. This writer set it up for separate control of blinding (to oncoming drivers even in daylight) Hella HID lamps. One was plenty for night time city while both would be on for rural solitary riding, creating my own daylight up ahead.
The above covers use of TWO switches on a BMW moto (pre CAN-BUS). To add another TWO Autoswitches for a total of 4, just use the high beam trigger for the AS5P (long pulse) and AS5P2 for the two quick pulses. This writer used the P2 on a new 1200GS via the tail light brake bulb. I do 2 quick touches the brake lever to activate the AS5P2. This is not a recommended activation method.
LED Indicator Light Information |
LED dimensions details:
This LED has a lens on top. The housing is a 5mm diameter, 7mm tall. There is a 1mm long flange at the bottom thats 6mm diameter. The wire underneath needs aproximately 20mm before a full bend can be made. This stiffness is only due to all the layers of protective heat shrink tubing. By modifying this area the bottom of the LED wire secion can be set up much smaller.
LED info:
The LED is a bi-color. Red or Green. It changes color by getting the volatge on the feed wire reversed by the processor. When the LED is quickly pulsed the color appears orange to the eye. The wire is 6 to 7 feet long. It should never be cut or altered due to the danger of damaging the processor chip. If the wires are shorted when the Autoswitch is powered up, the processor chip will be instantly ruined.
Further tech info about converting the LED to be a bulb, or changing to a different LED entails custom work, info and configurations we do not have available at this time.
Modifying your Garage Door Remote |
Additional information coming soon ...
Troubleshooting an Autoswitch on the Work Bench |
It is always recommended you pre-test operation of accessories of any kind before being installed on your vehicle. Especially important when the accessory is electrical, electronic and involves over an hour of detailed labor and vehicle dissasembly. If the product being installed is defective, you just saved a great deal of time and effort, and can go direct to working with the supplier to remedy the problem. If a problem arrises after the product is installed you already know to troubleshoot your wiring not the product itself.
With all that said, lets test the autoswitch on the bench or at your shop before you install it. You will need a 12-14 Volt power source and a Volt meter/Ohm meter.
1. Unpack the Autoswitch AS5NG2 . Apply +12V to the red wire and ground the black wire. You should see the red LED illuminate for 1 second.
2. Set your Ohm meter to read continuity and connect the leads to the black/white cable (zip cord wire)
3. Touch and hold the orange wire to ground or negative 12V side of your power source. Hold it for over 1.2 seconds, the LED should be flashing fast, and release during the fast flashing.
4. Watch or listen to your Ohm meter as the white/black wire shorts or closes contact for 1 second.
5. You have proven your AS5NG2 is GOOD.
Toubleshooting an Autoswitch Installation |
1. Check your connections.
2. Check your connections.
3. Check your connections.
Follow the 3 steps above and we are 99.5% certain the problem will be solved. These little circuits over the years of refinement (version 5 now) have become excellent at surviving your misuse, abuse, bad installs, bike drops, reverse voltage, bad relays etc.
Some tips:
1. If you care about your work and not paying by the hour to do it, dump the red wire clips. Solder all your connections. Since most connections are a T type and hard to wrap, I use a dab of silicon glue or pieces of plastic tube and other ways to insulate well the connection. Be sure the silicon hardens before closing up the bike or powering up!
2. If your lights blink OFF and then back ON, you have a loose connection either to the relay coil or the high amp wires that the relay is controlling. Dont ignore the ground connections to the lights or relay.
3. If your lights go off and you have to use the Autoswitch to turn them back on then power to the Autoswitch red or black wire is intermittent.
4. Get your voltmeter and test for voltages at the inputs and outputs of the Autoswitch.
5. If the LED is green you MUST have voltage coming from the violet wire. Disconnect your relay coil and test again, maybe the coil is bad or shorted.
6. The LED turns red upon power up, 97% chance the circuit is working fine.
7. Dont forget to call or email back after you did steps 1, 2 and 3 to find the problem you blamed on Autoswitch on your first call or email. Thanks!
