Additional information coming soon ...
Garage Controller set up:
The way we designed our system, you use the same high security controller you already trust and have been using. No worries about aftermarket low security controllers or high prices for new ones that work on our system. Its fairly simple to connect the Autoswitch to your controller, OR send it to us and we will do it for you. No need to send us your Autoswitch (if already purchased, or purchasing from your favorite dealer). We simply get your controller and add 2 wires to exit the controller which you then simply splice onto the Autoswitch! We will do this for your controller at a flat rate $23 including delivery back to you.
How it works and how its done:
This special Autoswitch G series have an on-board relay which opens and closes contact for 2 seconds on 2 wires on the Autoswitch. These 2 wires then connect inside your existing garage door RF remote opener/controller. The 2 wires connect inside on the PC board of your opener using a small soldering pencil and a bit of electronic solder. The wires exit the controller via small hole existing on the controller or a hole you make using a blade or small grinder.
The wires inside the controller connect to where the physical pushbutton on your controller is connected. You will need a way to confirm continuity when pressing the physical button on the PCB (printed circuit board) of your controller. Just use an Ohm meter and select the points you think are right. Once you see the contact closure on your Ohm meter you have located the solder points for the Autoswitch control wire.
Click here to download complete detailed instructions as an Adobe pdf file.
Using a Turn Signal Canceler |
If using an aftermarket turn signal canceler that ALSO sends a negative or ground connection to the controller box, be sure the pulse is less than 1 second in length and it is a single pulse. This will avoid it telling the Autoswitch to activate your lights relay ON or OFF. Or activating the garage door opener.
Using Multiple Autoswitches on the Same Vehicle |
The AS5P looks at a power ON window of 1.2 seconds to 10 seconds during which time the high beam would be turned off to activate your lights relay.
The second Autoswitch would be the AS5P2 which takes 2 quick power on pulses from the high beam wire to activate the lights relay. This AS5P2 ignores the long pulse thats seen only by the AS5P. Likewise the AS5P ignores the 2 quick pulses that the AS5P2 sees. Or instead of the P2 it may be the garage model AS5NG2 but 2 of the same pulse models shall not be used on the same vehicle if sensing the same circuit. (both activations would occur)
Some uses for 2 switches might be separate control of one or 2 sets of auxiliary lights. Or to turn on a power strip providing power direct from the battery, or to remove power from a circuit.
On BMW bikes with the negative pulse turn signal cancel, up to 4 switches total can be used!
LED Indicator Light Information |
LED dimensions details:
This LED has a lens on top. The housing is a 5mm diameter, 7mm tall. There is a 1mm long flange at the bottom thats 6mm diameter. The wire underneath needs aproximately 20mm before a full bend can be made. This stiffness is only due to all the layers of protective heat shrink tubing. By modifying this area the bottom of the LED wire secion can be set up much smaller.
LED info:
The LED is a bi-color. Red or Green. It changes color by getting the volatge on the feed wire reversed by the processor. When the LED is quickly pulsed the color appears orange to the eye. The wire is 6 to 7 feet long. It should never be cut or altered due to the danger of damaging the processor chip. If the wires are shorted when the Autoswitch is powered up, the processor chip will be instantly ruined.
Further tech info about converting the LED to be a bulb, or changing to a different LED entails custom work, info and configurations we do not have available at this time.
Modifying your Garage Door Remote |
Additional information coming soon ...
Troubleshooting an Autoswitch on the Work Bench |
It is always recommended you pre-test operation of accessories of any kind before being installed on your vehicle. Especially important when the accessory is electrical, electronic and involves over an hour of detailed labor and vehicle dissasembly. If the product being installed is defective, you just saved a great deal of time and effort, and can go direct to working with the supplier to remedy the problem. If a problem arrises after the product is installed you already know to troubleshoot your wiring not the product itself.
With all that said, lets test the autoswitch on the bench or at your shop before you install it. You will need a 12-14 Volt power source and a Volt meter/Ohm meter.
1. Unpack the Autoswitch AS5PG2. Apply +12V to the red wire and ground the black wire. You should see the red LED illuminate for 1 second.
2. Set your Ohm meter to read continuity and connect the leads to the black/white cable (zip cord wire)
3. Touch the yellow wire to +12V source twice quickly. The two contact times must be completed in less than 1.2 seconds. It is 2 quick touches within 1.2 second of each other.
4. Watch or listen to your Ohm meter as the white/black wire shorts or closes contact for 1 second.
5. You have proven your AS5PG2 is GOOD.
Toubleshooting an Autoswitch Installation |
1. Check your connections.
2. Check your connections.
3. Check your connections.
Follow the 3 steps above and we are 99.5% certain the problem will be solved. These little circuits over the years of refinement (version 5 now) have become excellent at surviving your misuse, abuse, bad installs, bike drops, reverse voltage, bad relays etc.
Some tips:
1. If you care about your work and not paying by the hour to do it, dump the red wire clips. Solder all your connections. Since most connections are a T type and hard to wrap, I use a dab of silicon glue or pieces of plastic tube and other ways to insulate well the connection. Be sure the silicon hardens before closing up the bike or powering up!
2. If your lights blink OFF and then back ON, you have a loose connection either to the relay coil or the high amp wires that the relay is controlling. Dont ignore the ground connections to the lights or relay.
3. If your lights go off and you have to use the Autoswitch to turn them back on then power to the Autoswitch red or black wire is intermittent.
4. Get your voltmeter and test for voltages at the inputs and outputs of the Autoswitch.
5. If the LED is green you MUST have voltage coming from the violet wire. Disconnect your relay coil and test again, maybe the coil is bad or shorted.
6. The LED turns red upon power up, 97% chance the circuit is working fine.
7. Dont forget to call or email back after you did steps 1, 2 and 3 to find the problem you blamed on Autoswitch on your first call or email. Thanks!
